It was midday and he saw the waves,
crashing, crashing on the shore,
waves arched, all concave.
And yet he needed more
“Beware those walls of water, my son,”
“the tides that pull and rip!”
Take heed, for the water will hit you like
The wetsuit went on with a zip.
He took his long board under his arm,
he had sought this day for very long.
The boy kept away from the pointy boards,
to keep his board safe from harm.
He paddled out to the surfer throng.
The boy sat on his board, letting waves pass.
Then it was there, a wave that gave off a great feeling,
it had come from nowhere; this one would not pass;
the water gurgled and frothed,
this monster was not heeling.
1, 2,3,4,5… And UP!
The board went in and out.
He had the wave of the day,
you could hear his shout!
“Have you had your fun my boy?”
“Come home son,” but he wanted to stay,
“Yes, yes we had our fun.”
“A great First Summer Day!!”
It was the evening and he saw the
crashing, crashing on the shore,
waves arched, all concave.
And yet he needed more!
